Sew-along: Vogue 1669: vintage coat

The pattern
Lined coat has fitted bodice, side front pockets with flaps, two-piece sleeve with slit and center back pleat. View A-Contrast bodice facing and upper collar. Views A, B-Optional bound buttonholes. Sew Rating: Advanced
Re-issue of Vogue Couturier Design 490 from 1949.

Additional info:
  • US 6-14 or US 14-22.
  • Recommended fabrics: flannel, tweed or lightweight woolens
  • Rated advance
  • envelope pattern with multiple sizes

The fabric
  • Wool-look polyester, but the description does not do it justice. It looks really beautiful. I used faded blue for the outside and night blue for the contrasting collar. Weight is 420 g/m² (17,72 oz.yd2) which I found to be a bit to thick for the pockets and bound buttonholes.
  • Dark blue lining
Wool: 3,5+0,7 m for €6,00/m
Lining: 3 m for €1,75/m all through Site is in Dutch and German.

I scarcely made it with 3,5 meter fabric where fabric requirements ask for 4 meter. I had to cut out all the pieces, mirror when needed and lay them out so to find the most economical lay-out.
I did not sew interfacing. I think there are no good cheep alternatives to canvas hair that do provide strength and not just add weight. 3 1/2 yard interfacing is way to much. Look at the instructions first so you can make a better guess on how to place the pieces more economically.

The line drawing
The line drawing is great, although the shape a bit exaggerated, like was the style in those days. The lines show all the beautiful lines, from the heart shaped back, the beautiful pockets and gorgeous lapels. It doesn't show the side seam, which is actually two seams around the pocket and it is amazing.
The pattern instructions
The rating of the pattern is advance and some techniques might require a Youtube search for the less experienced sewist. The instructions, though, are very elaborate. Pictures are included in every step and are very clear.
There is one step though, I can't quite figure out. In my opinion the part for the bound button hole is printed mirrored. Please look at step 41 to figure out if you do have orientated the piece correctly.

The pattern works like a breeze. Reading every step carefully and make sure to follow every match, pin, baste, clip, press. Take every step as a journey, enjoy the ride and it is something you will definitely are able to make.

After only a few steps you can try it on for the first time. Without lining and sleeves, it is already a dream.

Making an elaborate coat like this has never been easier. It took two weeks of sewing for a couple of hours in the evening and the occasional weekend day. Pressing the wool might have been the most time consuming step throughout.

Pattern alterations
I did not use interfacing and no shoulder pads.
I made a mistake with the back pleat and did not sew it together.
I could not under stitch the pocket (due to thick fabric) making it look bulkier.
I could not make welt-pockets out of button-holes due to thick fabric.

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