Sew along: Met naald en schaar: original vintage dress - finished 21-07

Making the sloper, making a muslin and making a lining all in one.

A sloper is a pattern piece made specificaly for your body measurements. If sewn, it would create a very basic and fitted garment. I wrote more about that here: Cheating method to a sloper.

Muslin is actually a basic cotton fabric and a muslin is a general name for a mock-garment. With a cheaper alternative fabric (but with similar stretch, weight and drape) you make a garment from any pattern and from here you can adjust the fit. Some people make a muslin before all garments. I only do it for very special fabrics. Some people make their muslins in a nice fabric and creating a 'wearable' muslin.

I use my muslin as the lining (inner layer) of the dress.

In this project I made a muslin from white cotton. I had to do this because I drew the pattern myself and I could not know how everything fitted. My first try was widened by 1,5 inch and is to long in the back. I think the back will be less of a problem when I use the seam allowances.

Cutting out the pattern

The front part is cut into two pieces so I can add a piping. The darts are in the upper bodice. The lower bodice is cut from one part and doesn't need a dart or extra seam.

The back is cut in an upper and lower part to add piping (it is cut into a left and right part to save fabric).

Piping is a cord covered in fabric to add contrast. You see it in bags a lot and can also be used in garments. The cord can be in smaller or bigger diameters and you can make it yourself. This is store bought.

The back of the dress looks like this.

Measuring the straps.

Front bodice.

So, from here on I put the straps on wrong, so do as I say, not as I do.

Above is how I measured the straps.

You will need to sew the straps between both layers of the dress. Above you see the straps as worn, the lining will be upside down, right side of straps facing wrong side of lining.

Here you see wrong side of straps and you should see the wrong sides of the lining.

Right sides of the lining and the topdress should face each other. right sides of top dress and straps should also face each other.

Not a huge mistake. I like the fit.

Side view.

I want to add a full circle skirt and I will cut two quarters and one halve on the selvages. Pinning down your measuring tape makes it much easier to make a circle.

The line is hardly visible.

On the left one half circle, on the right two quarters. On the bottom a rectangular piece of fabric. I want to add two lines of piping down the middle so I need an extra seam down the front.

I made the two lines of piping come out of the bodice from the same point.

The two lines of piping will fall together, but have space to fall apart.

Hemming and done.

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